I’ve seen a couple of posts mentioning using a light or thin coat of epoxy over the threads, but wonder how to thin it, or are you just saying put just a little on rather than a glob.
a thinner is added to the head cement to thin it. ex. Dave’s Head Cement can be thinned with a product called Dave’s Head Cement Thinner. you can add as much or as little thinner to get the consistancy that you desire.
oops, sorry i thought you were taling about fly tying. i don’t think it is the same
Some epoxies can be solvent thinned, some can’t be. Any epoxy can be applied in a thin fashion, however.
Epoxy can be gently thinned by warming it in your hands, or with a hairdrier on low setting, before mixing it. The idea is to apply a thin coat of epoxy to the threads (at least that’s MY ideal), let it dry then apply another thin coat to finish.
Betty is correct warming will thin wrap epoxy. I’ve been tempted to get one of the little hot plates that keeps your coffee warm at you desk to warm and maintain the temp.
I do know that epoxy sets up faster in warmer temps…and also the way to break the epoxy bond is to really heat it.
I don’t recommend letting epoxy go over 85 degrees if mixed. So … if you heat the resin too much and then blend, it will greatly shorten the pot life and not level as well.
Thanks for that Jim, I was just going to put the bottles in warm water, so I’ll be careful to keep it under 85.
MET (methyl ethyl ketone) is a epoxy thinner.
Dangerous stuff however…it desolved a plastic cup I poured it into…I gave up on trying to thin epoxy
Fishy, this is what I’ve done on bamboo and it worked very well.
Using a SMALL, shallow holder…eg a teaspoon, balanced so the stuff doesn’t all run off the backside…add a few drops of epoxy and with a toothpick stir in a “little” acetone. Add until the mixture is nearly as thin as water but not quite so runny.
Use the toothpick to “touch” drop (wick) some mixture into the threads and allow to dry.
Easy. Also when needing to remove the guides much later for repair, for example, you’ll find it will be simple too as it peels off just like a thick skin leaving the 'boo intact.
Jeremy.
Some epoxies cannot be thinned - with MEK, acetone, denatured alcohol, etc.
If you want to tell me what thread epoxy you are specifically using, I can let you know what can and can’t be done in respect to solvent thinning, heat application, etc.
This topic has come up many times in the past. IMO epoxy does not need to be thinned if the correct material is used in the first place. Planning is the key! Flex Coat for example has both a Hi-Build and a Lite formula which both give excellant but different results based on what you are looking for in a finish. This stuff can be difficult to work with at the best of times and being that everything with epoxy must be measured accurately, I feel thinning epoxy may only open the door to poor finishes where the epoxy does not setup correctly. Yes, others may have had success by thinning epoxy, so personal preference prevails here. Adding some heat does allow it to flow a little easier, but also quickens the drying process, again leading to other possibilities of poor finished results. My own experiences with hundreds of repairs has shown that proper measuring, mixing and application techniques in a normal room environment gives the best results, with setup time based on room temp and relative humidity at the time of application. It is recommended to never try to rush this part of a rod project or you may come out disappointed in the end. If the first coat is not satisfactory, add a second coat within 24 hours to get the final result you are looking for. Good luck with your project. 
Maybe this is what you are trying to do. Have a look here at this : http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.p … topic=7286
The results are wonderful.
Barry
I really was just responding to the post about cutting off the “fuzzies” after putting on a light coat of epoxy, so I think what I will do is warm the mixture slightly, and not put on a glob of the mixture, just spread it on thinly - does this make sense? I have never had “fuzzies” problems, but put these on with Madeira polyneon and they seem to be a bit more fragile. Is this just as good a way to get them off as using an alcohol lamp and singing them a little?