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Standing Shrimp
By Octavio Araujo a.k.a. "Brazilian Guy"

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Standing Shrimp

This fly was created by Eric Peterson for bonefish. Eric has captured the vertical posture that a shrimp assume when attacked by weighting the tail and locating a forked mono weed/coral guard that act as "legs" that maintain the fly in the standing posture. Selective bonefish may eagerly take this fly, since it looks more like a shrimp than most patterns used for bonefish. It's a good pattern for tailing bones, except for extremely spooky bonefish, since the weight of the fly might spook the fish on the impact. On this situation I prefer to use a weightless fly. This fly has proved very good for me on cruising fish in shallow water at Biscayne Bay, Florida.

Materials List:

Hook:  TMC 811S or Mustad 34007; sizes 2, 4, 6

Thread:  Rust or brown.

Mouth / Claws / Walking Legs:  Pearl Krystal Flash, brown marabou and cree saddle hackle (or cree grizzly).

Antennae:  Two strands of black Krystal Flash.

Eyes:  Small black plastic bead or burnt mono painted black.

Weed/coral Guard:  20 lb. clear mono.

Weight: 1/8" lead barbell or medium bead chain painted black for smaller hooks.

Tail:  Fine brown bucktail or deer hair.

Body:  Brown or gold Antron-type dubbing, four strands orange Krystal Flash.

Carapace:  The original call for single strand of clear Larva Lace, but I prefer a clear strip of plastic, the plastic that hooks and tying materials come in are very good for this.

Rib:Tying Thread.

Tying Instructions:

1.  Wrap thread from hook eye to bend of hook. Tie in two strands of black Krystal Flash two-and-a-half times shank length at the very start of the bend of the hook.

2.  Tie the brown marabou of the length of the hook shank than 3 strands of pearl Krystal Flash a bit shorter than the marabou.

3.  Tie the black plastic eyes then come back with the thread and tie the cree hackle. Wrap the hackle 3 or 4 times around the shank and tie it off just before the eyes.

4.  Now tie the weed/coral guard, which is the most important part of this pattern, since is the weed/coral guard that will make the fly stand up when sitting still on the bottom. Wrap the thread to near the middle of the hook and tie the 20 lb. mono with figure-eight wraps. Cut the two strands of mono to the desired length, I like just a bit longer than the hook gape.
5.   Wrap the thread to the hook eye and tie the lead barbell on the underside of the hook.

6.  Stack and tie in the brown bucktail just before the lead barbell. The bucktail should lay in over back of the hook and the natural tips of the bucktail should extend 1/2" over the plastic eyes. Give the bucktail butts the approximate shape of the tail of a shrimp, I use a rounded cut.

7.   With the thread before the plastic eyes, apply the dubbing and form a loop. Wrap the dubbing loop around the plastic eyes and all the way to the lead barbell. Cut it off.

8.  With the thread just before the lead barbell, tie 3 or 4 strands of orange Krystal Flash and a fine strip of clear plastic. Lay the Krystal Flash and the plastic strip over the back and rib with the thread. Come back with the thread to the starting point and whip finish. The Krystal Flash should be two-thirds the lengh of the antennae (black Krystal Flash). The plastic strip should extend about 1/3" over the plastic eyes.

9.  Pick out the dubbing near the head of the shrimp with a dubbing needle.

It works!

Fishing the Fly:

You should cast this fly in front, or in the possible path of the bonefish. Give it some short strips until the fish sees it, then let it drop so it stands on it's tail and watch the fish to see the pick-up. If the fish loose interest, give the fly some more strips. ~ Octavio Araujo a.k.a. "Brazilian Guy"

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