Advanced Fly Tying:
Al's Lace Caddis Pupa
By Al Campbell
One of the aspects of fly tying most troubling to beginners is learning
how to look at a fly from the inside out. Multi-dimensional flies can be
stunning to look at and great to fish with, but too many people find it
difficult to view a fly in layers, so they never try to tackle these types
of flies. Too bad, they don't know the feeling of accomplishment they
could enjoy if they would just try to progress to multi-dimensional flies.
The concept of seeing a fly in layers isn't really new. Guys like Franz
Pott and George Grant used it in many of their patterns. They experimented
with multi-layered under-bodies and over-wraps of monofilament in many
of their patterns with great success from the fisherman's standpoint. What
they didn't do was use this method to create more realistic flies, but instead
continued with impressionistic flies with woven hair hackles. The fish loved
their flies, and the fishermen loved the results so much they often paid
high prices to fish those woven creations.
With the advent of clear and semi-clear vinyl and plastic lace materials, the
idea of multi-layered flies took on a new dimension that wasn't readily
available in the days of Franz and George. Fly bodies could be created
with multiple layers then over-wrapped with a clear layer of lace or vinyl
to give them a realistic translucent look that other tying methods couldn't
create. The effect is pleasing to the human eye and the eye of the fish as
well. It also produces more durable bodies than other methods.
Although I don't consider all multi-layered flies to be advanced patterns,
some patterns require a type of attention to detail and mastery of material
placement skills that just aren't present in the eyes and hands of beginners
and most intermediate level tyers. This fly is not an exception. If you don't
get the body dimensions right or don't place the materials in the right
position, the fly won't look right and probably won't fish as well as a
fly tied with the right proportions.
However, don't let that scare you away from trying something new. This
pattern is just the type of skill building exercise you need to advance in
your fly tying studies. Few people hit home runs their first time up to the
plate; but with practice and dedication, they can become good ball players
if they want to. You can master difficult patterns and skills if you're
willing to work at it and practice.
I promise I won't stay on multi-layered flies forever; but I think learning
to tie flies in layers is worth lingering for a short while on this subject.
This pattern is part of that exercise.
Al's Lace Caddis Pupa
Hook: Shrimp/Caddis, Mustad 80250BR; Tiemco 2487; or equivalent. Size 10 to 20.
Thread: 6/0 or 3/0, 6/0 olive and black.
Under-body: Green or orange dubbing topped with about 6 to 12 natural fibers from a pheasant tail.
Outer-body: Light amber or clear Larva-Lace. (v-rib or another similar material can be used)
Thorax: Coarse grayish/brown dubbing.
Wing pads: Hungarian partridge feathers dipped in Anglers Choice
Thin Soft Body and pulled to shape.
Legs: 4 to 10 dark, barred Hungarian partridge feather fibers tied in beard style.
Antennae: Two fibers from a lemon wood duck feather. (Dyed or bronze mallard will work.)
Start the olive thread on the hook, then tie in the larva-lace wrapping it down the bend.
2. Add the pheasant tail fibers, tying them in by the tips.
3. Create a tapered under-body of green dubbing. I prefer
coarse dubbing created by blending several colors of sparkle yarn in a
coffee grinder until I find the color I want. By using several colors,
it gives the finished fly a better hue.
4. The body should cover about 2/3rds of the hook shank.
5. Pull the pheasant tail fibers over the body; tie off and trim.
6. Start wrapping the lace over the body. Keep your wraps
close together to create a segmented look, but don't allow any gaps in
the lace. Be sure to keep the pheasant tail fibers on top of the hook.
Don't let them drift down the far side of the body.
7. Over-wrap the entire body, then tie off and trim.
8. Tie off the olive thread then switch to the black thread.
9. Select a dark partridge feather with barred markings.
(Any dark, barred feather will work.)
10. Tie in 4 to 10 of the dark fibers as a beard. Be sure
to keep the fibers directly under the body. The fibers should extend
to the hook bend.
11. Select a pair of lighter feathers from the same skin.
I prefer feathers with a light band down the center of the feather.
12. Dip the feathers in Anglers Choice thin Soft Body or coat
them with flexament, then squeeze and pull the feather fibers together to
form a thinner feather profile. Tie one feather on each side of the fly to
form wing pads. The wing pads should extend about half way back
on the body of the fly.
13. Select a lemon wood duck feather like the one shown.
14. Remove two of the fibers to use as antennae.
15. Tie in the fibers as antennae about twice as long as the body of the fly.
16. Dub a tapered thorax of coarse brownish/gray dubbing.
17. Whip finish, trim and cement the head and thorax.
18. From the side, your finished fly should look similar to this.
19. From the top it should look like this. Notice how the antennae
bend away from each other?
It should take about the same amount of time to tie this fly as it does
to tie a properly winged Adams. However, this fly looks a lot more
realistic than most traditional dry flies do. I believe the fish will agree.
Fish the fly by casting slightly upstream and letting it sink as it drifts;
then lift the rod tip and cause the fly to rise toward the surface like a
naturally ascending pupae would rise. The combination of a realistic
looking fly and realistic looking motion should do the rest. I think
you'll be pleased by the results.
See ya next month - Remember, I'm always happy to answer
your questions, feel free to
email me. ~ Al Campbell
ADVANCED Fly Tying Archives
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