|
|
By Jeff Pierce
Materials List:
|
Tying Instructions: Step 1: Place the 5/0 10829BLN in the vise and build up a base of thread on the shank.
 Step 2: Cut an 8 inch piece of 90lb Seven Strand wire. Laying the wire along the shank of the hook, run about one inch of it down through the eye of the hook. Begin securing the wire to the top of the hook with several tight wraps.
|
 Step 3: Pull the tag end of the wire that is running down through the eye tight against the underside of the shank of the hook. Secure the tag end with several tight wraps. Cut the wire to length and then be very careful wrapping over the cut end. The cut end of the wire is very sharp and will cut the thread. What I do is place several loose (light pressure, no slack) wraps over the end to cover the sharp edge and then several more tight wraps over them. Apply a coat of Zap-a-Gap and whip finish.
 Step 4: Place the 3/0 92568BLN in the vise and build up a base of thread.
 Step 5: You now need to attach the wire with the 10827BLN to the stinger hook. The hooks should be opposed 180 degrees for the best hooking effectiveness. The distance the stinger hook should be behind the main hook depends on the fish you are targeting. The stinger hook should be farther back in the fly when targeting species that are notorious short strikers. The stinger hook can be closer for species that tend to attach the head of the fly like barracuda. Typically the eye of the stinger hook is 1 to 2 inches behind the bend of the main hook. Please keep in mind that I.G.F.A. Rules require that the stinger hook must be completely behind the front hook (eye of stinger and bend of main hook cannot overlap), but cannot extend out beyond the body of the fly. On this particular fly, the stinger spacing was 1.75 inches behind the main hook. Once you have the spacing figured out, lay the wire down along the top of the 92568BLN and place 5 light wraps around the hook. Now, you need to adjust the wire so that the hooks are 180 degrees opposed. You do not want the stinger twisted to one side or another. Once you have its alignment right secure the wire with several tight wraps back to just before the bend of the hook.
 Step 6: Bend the tag end of the wire down and around so that the tag end runs along the nderside of the shank. Cut the wire so that it stops about 1/8 of an inch short of the eye. Use the loose wraps/tight wraps again to keep the thread from being cut. Then secure the wire with several tight wraps and finish with a coating of Zap-a-Gap and whip finish. Your tandem harness is done. Now . . . onto the fly.
 Step 7: Place the 10827BLN back in the vise and secure the thread again with a few tight wraps. Tie in a long bundle of pearl/white Slinky Fibre to the underside of the hook.
|
Step 8: Tie in another bundle of pearl/white Slinky Fibre to the top of the hook, being sure
to spread the material out and down along each side to blend it together.
 Step 9: Tie in a bundle of pearl Fire Fly material and then a bundle of silver over the top of that. You can substitute with PolarFlash of similar colors.
 Step 10: Tie in a large bundle of blue pearl PolarFlash. Then, tie in a smaller bundle of pale blue rainbow PolarFlash on top of that.
 Step 11: Tie in a large bundle of blue PolarFlash. When tying in these bundles, be sure to stack these on top of one another as neatly as possible. This will allow you to form the high profile of a baitfish and create the proper shading/coloration. Now, rotate the fly into the upside down position. Add the gills by tying in a doubled over piece of red Fluoro Fibre.
 Step 12: Now it's time to add the eyes. I used 12mm silver prismatic stick on eyes on this fly. I will generally mix things up a bit when tying a few of these. Give a couple red eyes, a couple chartreuse eyes and the rest silver. Some days the smallest detail may cause the fish to plow your fly or flat out refuse it. It pays to be prepared. I then give the head of the fly two thin coats of Softex. This is a great material for adding some serious durability to your flies. It's lightweight, non-yellowing and it feels natural. I have also used Zpoxy, but I prefer the Softex. I coat the head of the fly to just back of the eyes. This will help the fly keep it's shape and keep the eyes on the fly for more than a few backcasts.
Step 13: Next, I comb the fly out to get everything straight and then lay it down on a piece of cardboard. I then use a black Prismacolor marker to add the stripes to each side. Be sure to do this with a thick piece of cardboard under the fly as the marker can and will stain. Let it all dry and you are finished! Variation: Here is the same fly with a 'popper head'!
Fishing Suggestions:
|
About Jeff PierceJeff Pierce is the North American Sales Coordinator for O. Mustad & Son (USA), Inc. and Partridge. He is the Captain of Team Mustad and is a diehard angler and fly tier. Jeff's alias is "Dr. Fish" because of his insane addiction to fishing and studying fish.
Previous Monthly Flies!
|
P.O. Box 838 253 Grant Avenue Auburn, NY 13021 USA Phone: (315) 253-2793 Fax: (315) 253-0157 Email.
|